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> PROBLEMS, Logan Owners Problems

klaus
post 14 Jul 2008, 09:35
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The problem of acceleration cable is very common in Romania. The quality of the cable is very poor.
Also the problem with water pump is common, but less on logan; it was very common on Dacia Supernova (with Renault engine)


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heinz57g
post 14 Jul 2008, 15:15
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klaus, are you implying the export quality is better? we had, on 18 cars as old as
3 years now one broken cable, one replaced 'just' before it broke, and one cracked
(actual body, not the gasket) water pump.

strange enough, the cracked waterpump was on a car only 600kms old, so it would
have been a manufacturing or mounting fault.

the workshops seem to know this gaspedal cable problem, they check on every service.

greetings - heinz -

This post has been edited by heinz57g: 14 Jul 2008, 15:15


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cubik
post 14 Jul 2008, 18:39
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heinz57g,
Accelerator it became bad to move. To press it was necessary having put force. The pomp on the sly leaked. The level of a liquid should be added. At the Big Service have seen outflow of antifreeze. At me it is unique lacks of the machine. There are no problems More.


14 Jul 2008, 19:43:
QUOTE(Loganovac @ 14 Jul 2008, 07:28)
Guys, please note that Cubik is driving Renault Logan, not genuine Dacia! This can happen...

Of course, Cubik, I am just kidding. Thanks for the fine photos and I wish you all the best.
*


Guys, and to us motors and all iron on a body whence come... Correctly from Romania. smile.gif biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by cubik: 14 Jul 2008, 18:43


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heinz57g
post 14 Jul 2008, 18:50
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thanks cubik, that proves my point and our experience:

>> Accelerator ... bad to move ... necessary ... put force

which means the cable rubbed or squeezed somewhere. anybody out there might know exactly where?

>> pomp on the sly leaked

if it is a lot it is easier to see and fix. if it is very little, one might find to late.

but many thanks for reporting this here, and making us aware of it.

greetings - heinz -


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There is nothing wrong with change, if it is in the right direction. Thats why the British drive on the left.
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cubik
post 14 Jul 2008, 21:23
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heinz57g, Photo of that place where the cable of an accelerator has frayed. Outflow of antifreeze was small. 0,1-0,15 l. For 15000 km. Has recollected still a problem - a leak of oil through condensation of a cam-shaft. It is very widespread.
118573912.jpg



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taba
post 22 Jul 2008, 15:58
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QUOTE(taba @ 25 May 2008, 15:40)
A simple but unfortunately serious problem has been arised for some Logans in Iran. A minor leakage of oil from a screw above the polley of valves in their K4M engine, cause a major problem because it defects the timing belt. Due to this problem the timing belt may be dameged and some pollies may stop when others are running, so the valves may conflicts and accident with pistons, causing a major damage to the engine. Is this problem exist for other friends?
*



Hi all,
At last after 50 days, the spare parts for repairing my Logan received to repair station and they called me to take it there. They changed 7 parts (2 belts, 2 polleies, scrow, bolt) that defected due to oil leakage. They also repaire the interrior light and done the first 10000 Km service.

In Logan's manual (in Iran), it is noted that the tires must NOT be replaced, while it is recomended for other cars. Do this noted in your Logan user's manual?


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heinz57g
post 22 Jul 2008, 16:16
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>> noted that the tires must NOT be replaced

never? or not when you change some belts? where is the connection?

in our manual it just says not to replace the tires during driving ...

greetings - heinz -

This post has been edited by heinz57g: 22 Jul 2008, 16:17


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Loganovac
post 24 Jul 2008, 12:29
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Why not, I always change tires during driving... the other vehicle wink.gif


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heinz57g
post 24 Jul 2008, 12:37
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at least you have a good humor, my friend - nice to see that.

actually, let me tell you, at an autoshow in holland it have once seen a team changing
tires while driving. i am not kidding.

they move the car so it would run on an oval circuit on the two left wheels only, the right
side up in the air - this i had seen often enough. actually tried myself (i was young, long
time ago).

but then the co-driver leand out of the rear door, unscrewd and removed the right rear tire,
put it back into the car, drove one round, and then put it back on again.

so you see, it IS possible. actually, stu here could tell you too, because he usually
drives home on two wheels only every night.

greetings - heinz -

This post has been edited by heinz57g: 24 Jul 2008, 12:38


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taba
post 13 Oct 2008, 13:17
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QUOTE(heinz57g @ 22 Jul 2008, 17:46)
>> noted that the tires must NOT be replaced

never? or not when you change some belts? where is the connection?

in our manual it just says not to replace the tires during driving ...

greetings      - heinz -
*



There is no relation between that two subjects!.
Subject 1:
Because of oil leakage from one of screw located above the timing belt, some parts including timing belt and cooler's belt were changed.

Subject 2:
My question was about cross replacing of 4 wheels after a while to prevent wearing off at one wheel, and providing equal conditions for wheels so that they wear off equally. Using this technique leads to longer life for tires, and was recommended priviously, but in the user's manual of my logan (Tondar90) it is noted that the wheels must not cross replaced, and tires must stay in their position until the end of their life cycle.
Is there such recomendation at user's manual of your Logan?

This post has been edited by taba: 13 Oct 2008, 13:22


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g100sic
post 13 Oct 2008, 16:48
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To be honest I can't remember if something like that was written in the manual, but certain kind of tires (directional) prevents cross changing. If your tires are directional (and most modern tires are), ie, there is an arrow mark on the tire that instructs how it is to be mounted with respect to the direction of the car's movement (tire rotation, but not in reverse gear biggrin.gif), than you simply can NOT put left wheel in place of right, and vice versa, because then the tire rotation direction would be wrong (on both of them)!

Your tires might also be asymmetrical (in vertical plane, also very common feature in modern tires), in which case you not only have to take care of their directionality, but also which part goes to the inside and which to the outside when mounted on the rim. It almost happened to me in one tire shop, they mounted one tire wrong, but fortunately I noticed soon enough so they remounted it correctly.

But you can (and should) change your tires between the front and rear axle on the regular basis (every 5-10000 km), this also helps prevent uneven wear of the tires.

And if you read a bit around (Heinz's posts mostly... wink.gif), you will learn that for optimal grip you should put the "better" pair of tires (less worn, in better condition) on the rear axle, no matter what the type of drive your car has.


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Loganovac
post 13 Oct 2008, 16:50
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@taba: No, not at all!

This post has been edited by Loganovac: 13 Oct 2008, 16:52


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taba
post 14 Oct 2008, 08:19
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QUOTE(g100sic @ 13 Oct 2008, 18:18)
To be honest I can't remember if something like that was written in the manual, but certain kind of tires (directional) prevents cross changing...

But you can (and should) change your tires between the front and rear axle on the regular basis (every 5-10000 km), this also helps prevent uneven wear of the tires.

*



Thank you very much dear g100sic.

QUOTE(Loganovac @ 13 Oct 2008, 18:20)
@taba: No, not at all!
*



Thanks.


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voicamic
post 16 Oct 2008, 13:48
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One sole problem with my Logan MCV until now (19 months old, 22 000 km).
The window glass lifting mechanisms of the front doors make cracking noises every time I go over road humps, especially the right front door.
It started happening after approx. 1 year of use.
As my warranty period has expired, I plan to take out the inside panels of the doors to check what happens there!
Otherwise, I I must say it's the best car for me and my family today.

This post has been edited by voicamic: 16 Oct 2008, 14:46


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martin245
post 16 Oct 2008, 14:03
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I bet it is JUST a wire flapping around
Stu


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voicamic
post 16 Oct 2008, 17:40
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I wish it would be only that, Stu!
But I've heard already complaints from some former job mates of mine about this, and there are some similar posts in the Romanian section of the forum. It seems that, in time (few months), the articulations of the glass lifting mechanism get weakened and some play of working parts appears.
Anyway, as I said, I'll see for myself and then spread the word!


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Peja
post 1 Nov 2008, 15:39
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Strane sound coming from motor space.
Maby is just cause of some plastic/metal parts resonating, BUT....

The very strange sound is coming from motor space, something like gently "RRRRRR" Gear is in neutral position, nad sound apears each time arround 1500-2000rpm, but not at same rpm. AC is off, ventilation off.
It is not alternator, or water pupm, so I'm afraid that it is comming from engine.
If I press gas pedal harder sound desapiers.

Same sound is present during driving, again arround 1500-2000rpm

Logan 1.4 Preference, AC, 2008, 3000km

This post has been edited by Peja: 1 Nov 2008, 16:17


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g100sic
post 1 Nov 2008, 16:42
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You cannot locate it more precisely when you open the hood?

I would check it immediately with the service, if I were you!


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Peja
post 1 Nov 2008, 17:04
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I think that probably is something resonating, cause it is only arround 1500rpm, no strange sounds lower and higher.
I don't want to be funny if I report this problem at service, so I've asked here first.


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g100sic
post 1 Nov 2008, 20:08
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You don't want to look stupid in the crowd?! There is no place for that "game" in this case. You have every right to look funny, even stupid, for your money!!!

Of course that something is resonating, but if you can't find it out by yourself, you don't know if it is something minor or not. It may be resonating on some serious (and potentially dangerous) place. Don't loose time!

And I forgot to mention... For your money you have the right to be concerned, warried, even afraid!

This post has been edited by g100sic: 2 Nov 2008, 00:07


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Peja
post 2 Nov 2008, 13:41
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Seams I've solvet misterious sound. I've moved air filter case upward and backward (as I saw it is predefined to move), and than i've noticed that inlet pipe is also made of plastic and it is loosely fit over, also could produce noise.
So next time when started engine, ther were no misterious sound smile.gif


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g100sic
post 2 Nov 2008, 23:47
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Good for you, great that you solved your problem using your own knowledge, but you know that you shouldn't be touching anything that is not user serviceable during warranty period, because there are some dealers who may want to use anything you did to render your warranty void!

What you should have done, and not loose your face in front of the servicemen, you should have gone to the service, and told them "I think my air filter case is loose, please fix it, and by the way, while you're there, check also the inlet pipe!" biggrin.gif You can always get your hands dirty when the warranty expires, but I sincerely hope you will not have a reason for that.


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magomat
post 3 Nov 2008, 00:57
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the d'ont recommand to change the tires form front to back and vice versa because the tires are equilibrate and align on the car and not separate on a machine


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LuluMOB
post 3 Nov 2008, 08:59
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The air filter case has to be loose, if you block it you can damage the inlet pipe. The air filter and it's case are heavy and they have to vibrate separately. If they will try to block in service, it is wrong.


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Peja
post 3 Nov 2008, 18:09
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I didn't touch the screws (with underlay rubber). I've only move filter case upwards and backvards, and put fastener on inlet valve.
People from DACIA spared on this, so inlet pipe is lose on connection with filter case

This post has been edited by Peja: 3 Nov 2008, 18:11


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MrToad
post 26 Jan 2009, 19:40
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Hi there,

I have a diesel Logan estate, about 35,000km so far.

Great car, but a few minor problems from the beginning :

1. Only have handbook etc in Romanian - does anyone know how to get it in English / French (car bought in France)?

2. Have no written record of manufacturer's guarantee - the sales guy said it wasn't available / necessary because it was Dacia's standard guarantee, but I would like to see it (more below on why) - does anyone have it / know how I can hold of a copy?

3. Have throughout had on/off (usually, sadly on) problem with rear left indicator / stop lights - have taken it back to Renault soo many times, had new bulbs, had the "oxidation" removed, but no progress. Any ideas?

4. Have also throughout had problem with windscreen wipers - only that they don't respond at all if I switch them onto intermittent - otherwise fine.

5. Finally . . the spring on the petrol tank flap has sprung off - Renault said it was because of the soldering, but nevertheless want to charge me for replacing it. The car is less than a year old . . I'd kinda assumed the 3 year warrantee would cover this?

Any thoughts on any of this would be most welcome - still deeply love the car, and I traded UP from a Mercedes, albeit 100 years old!

Thanks
Mr Toad!


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Keka
post 2 Feb 2009, 14:30
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Ad 3: problem is probably in bad ground for those lights. check wires, especially one that leads and is connected to other metal parts and ebsure that contact is good. Sometimes paint finds way to these places and makes troubles.


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LOGGA
post 6 Jun 2009, 01:09
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44000 km petrol 1.4 . I have a problem with engine overheating. Temperature display show 6 bars in city drive and on the hill. Lowering of the temperature was possible only with AC turnig on (radiator fan is working constantly). Once the scale was full but boiling warning lamp is off. I notice the fan work frequently, but on 25C outside temp and speed 40 km/h in city it's need a 2-3 min to go down to 4 bars and after 15 sec return to 6 bars. In open road air flow thru radiator is good, so temp. was normal - 4 bars.
In diagnostic mode BC show the message (view the photo).
After reading on many forums, found the multiple cases like mine on Russian site.
First I try to replce the coolig liquid with GLACELF ogranic and work up thermostat (the moving in shaft was bad, up position almost sealed). For 2 days it's was OK, but problem go back quckly.
So I by the thermostat for 1700 dinars (18EUR) made in France. In some other store offer to me Facet for 700 din (7.5 EUR) but I decide to replace original part.
Remark: in auto service and seller Sekulic Veternik (Novi Sad) ask for thermostat 3090 dinars (34 EUR)!!! mad.gif

I replace the themostat and so far is OK. cool.gif

Regards!

This post has been edited by LOGGA: 6 Jun 2009, 16:38

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mihaimmm
post 8 Jun 2009, 17:26
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its an ok car for the price...


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GabrielD
post 17 Jun 2009, 23:19
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I have a problem with the accelerator cable, it sounds like a diesel engine.


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